tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8802283766017314810.post127390918236562550..comments2023-12-28T05:48:31.957-05:00Comments on Keep Training: Does Shaking Out while Climbing Really Work: The Science Says NoJRuccihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11400564722771820562noreply@blogger.comBlogger3125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8802283766017314810.post-19417925697623971822014-12-26T15:25:07.933-05:002014-12-26T15:25:07.933-05:00This study is beyond flawed. It is astonishing tha...This study is beyond flawed. It is astonishing that they conclude that compared with untrained subjects, the performance of trained climbers is more dependent on blood flow (i.e. blood flow correlates highly with performance among climbers), but they do not even consider how the positioning of the arm correlates with blood flow. And yet, they conclude that "shaking out" has no effect on climbing performance, and that there is no need for climbers to find good positions for doing this while on a route. In the study, the subjects performed gripping while hanging their arms vertically down; a position climbers never use in real climbing. The reason you get pumped while climbing is because you hold your arms above your head a long time and use oxygen in your arms while doing so. The reason why "shaking out" works (you don't need a scientific study to show this, it is enough just trying it yourself - the performance difference is huge and very much significant) is that lowering your arm will increase the blood flow temporarily in your arm. One experiment you can try yourself if you do not believe this is to hold your arms above your head for five minutes or so. After a while you will notice that you have exactly the same feeling of pump as you normally have on the climbing wall - without even holding a single hold.<br />Holding your hands up in the air prevents blood flow not too differently from how using a blood pressure cuff does (as was done in the study to show that blood flow affects performance), i.e. the experiments in the study support the exact opposite conclusion than the one the authors made.Rolandnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8802283766017314810.post-16072355372643168112011-03-02T12:39:11.652-05:002011-03-02T12:39:11.652-05:00Thanks for your comments!
1. Endurance training (...Thanks for your comments!<br />1. Endurance training (i.e. sport climbing, repeats on routes, etc) will help build cappillirization in the forearms. The adaptation is similar to what takes place in other area of the bodies that are aerobically stressed.<br />2. I completely agree, the authors of the article touched on this point. They commented that time would be better spent finding the best rest stance than focusing on shaking out. So you are completely right, the more technique you have, the better the rest stance you are going to use.<br />3. The placebo effect could have lot to do with it, but placebo effects however loose their efficacy over time. But I do agree that if you condition your body to shake, breathe, relax, and maintain composure, it will become habitual.JRuccihttps://www.blogger.com/profile/11400564722771820562noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8802283766017314810.post-8343794615209227822011-03-01T23:19:22.804-05:002011-03-01T23:19:22.804-05:00Cool write-up. A couple of notes and questions.
...Cool write-up. A couple of notes and questions.<br /><br />1. How do you train for capillary development or increased bloodflow to your forearms? Cardio?<br /><br />2. I believe a lot of recovery through shaking comes after i>learning<i how to rest and recover. A lot of it is in the mind. Any chump can hang on holds an do the exact same physical motion as an advanced climber, but he does not have the state of mind or the familiarity with recovery to properly focus on his breathing, shake appropriately, and de-weight his hand. I feel as though effective recovery is a learned process. <br /><br />3. Also, what if shaking is a placebo and the mind learns to relate the motion of shaking with the need to recover and it allows the body to do so? It can be a learned subconscious process...<br /><br />maybe none of what I just said makes since. I shake, and and somehow it works.TJ&Jhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/01995350082654295602noreply@blogger.com