Wednesday, February 16, 2011

Training for Climbing: Add Some Variation

Fellow Climbers,

A while back I did some research about alternative training methods so that I could properly periodize my training in regards to climbing.  Take a look, hopefully this gives you some ideas for your next sesh.



Basic Daily Template (4-5 Days Climbing Per Week) (No Specific Climbing Emphasis)

Threshold Bouldering Day (Power)
Stretch
Bouldering on Easy Problems 10min
One/Two Handed Dyno's 5-10min or Campus Board
45-60min Threshold Bouldering
10-15min Rest
20min Cool-Down Traversing and Movement Training

Bouldering Day (Strength & Power Endurance)
Stretch
Bouldering on Easy Problems 10min
4x4's
CIR 15reps @ V3 or V4
10-15min Rest
20min Cool-Down Traversing and Movement Training

Sport Day (Endurance)
Stretch
15 to 20min ARC and movement training
2 to 3 easy routes
CIR 10 to 15reps 5.10's
10-15min Rest
15 to 20min ARC and movement training

Sport Threshold Day (Endurance)
Stretch
2 to 4 warm-up routes of increasing difficulty
2 - 3 Onsight Attempts 5.12 Range
4 - 6 Red Point Attempts 5.11 - 5.12 Range
10-15min Rest
15 to 20min ARC and movement training

System Board Day (Power & Strength)
Garage Training
Hangboard Training


Further Descriptions of Days (Keep Reading!)


Threshold Bouldering Day
  1.  Steep Wall (Larger Holds) Work Single Moves & then Entire Problems
  2.  ≤45 Wall (Slopers & Crimps) Work Single Moves & then Entire Problems
  3.  ≤45 Wall (Body Extended & Lock-Offs) Work Single Moves & then Entire Problems
  4.  Lower Angle (Awkward & Balancy) Work Single Moves & then Entire Problems
  5.  Any Angle (Technical) Work Single Moves & then Entire Problems
              Single Move Training
  1.  Large Dynamic Movements
  2.  Deadpoints
  3.  Hard Lock-Offs
  4.  Toe/Heel Hooks
  5.  Work on problem areas

Bouldering Circuit Day (10-15 Easier Problems on All Angles & Holds)

Campus Board & Dyno's & Campusing

Power Endurance Work
  1.  4x4's of Medium Difficulty ,or 4x3's of Hard or, 4x2's Very Hard
  2.  PE Pyramids 1-2-3-4-3-2-1min, etc.
  3.  Laps on Longer Boulder Problems
  4.  Hard 30-40 Move Circuits
  5.  Campus Board W/ Feet On (Right Lead11-33-22-11, Left Lead11-33-22-11 X10-20)
  6.  3-5 Hard Boulder Problems (Try to get one 3x in less than 2min)

Endurance Work
  1.  Easy Routes (6-10 Routes)
  2.  Threshold Routes (2-6 Routes @ Redpoint Difficulty)
  3.  Hangboard Repeaters (8-12 Different Grips)
  4.  One & Ones (Hard Route & Easy Route Consecutively)
  5.  Long Circuits (60+ Moves)
  6.  Fixed Time on Wall

Hand & Finger Strength on Hangboard
  1.  Weighted Hangs
  2.  5x5-7sec Hangs -- 5sec b/w  X8-12 Different Grips
  3.  Repeaters 10x>10sec Holds -- 5sec b/w

System Board
  1. H.I.T. Training (Weighted On Different Grips 15-20 Hand Movements before Failure)
  2. Static Holds (Pull & Lock-off 4-5sec before grabbing next hold on different grips)

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